Creativity, Exclusivity and Commercial Viability: Brands Seek to Tick the Boxes at Paris Trade Shows
PARIS — While the city was abuzz with the designer debuts at heritage houses, it was a more mixed picture at fashion and accessories trade shows here during fashion week.
Geopolitics, uncertainty over trade tariffs and the difficulties faced by high-end players continued to weigh on exhibitors and visitors at Première Classe, Tranoï and Man / Woman, all of which ran through the first weekend of October.
“It’s super-tough, especially for independent fashion brands, with multibrand retailers going out of business,” said Alise Trautmane-Uzuner, founder and chief executive officer of retail and PR platform Doors in New York. “There are less and less retailers buying into independent brands.” Nevertheless, she believes, “the American market is still very interested in independent fashion brands.”
At Première Classe, the Brut Icon space showcased the work of young designers including winners from the Hyères Festival. Among them, jewelry designer Lucas Bauer, who celebrates organic forms; Tal Maslavi, from Israel, who showed quirky chewing-gum-inspired jewelry pieces, and Electroforming Gallery, based in London, presenting statement hybrids of top hats and bags created thanks to sponsorship from Chanel.
For the first time, the Run x Andam showroom for avant-garde ready-to-wear labels ran alongside Première Classe in the Tuileries, benefiting from synergies and cross-traffic. The 13 designers there included names from the official Paris calendar like Benmoyal and Didu alongside upcoming designers like Siegenthaler, Lariucci, Laformela and Rappaz. “I love the Run space, that’s in line with our customer, who’s looking for something with an edge,” Trautmane-Uzuner said.